Tagged: EK4

Gearbox & Clutch Swap

Saturday was a busy day! I had a text on Friday from Kyle asking if I could give him a hand swapping the gearbox and clutch on his EK4. He was having some problems with 5th gear decided a box swap was needed. Originally the car came with an S80 LSB gearbox from an Integra Type R however after a bit of advice he’d decided to go for the longer ratio S9B LSD gearbox from the Civic Aerodeck VTi. It was recommended as a better choice for use with the turbo kit he had recently had fitted and it should help with fuel economy a little. While picking up the new box, Kyle had also picked up an unsprung clutch so we had that to fit too. I’m not sure on Kyle’s experience with changing boxes but I’ve played with a few Honda’s now so I didn’t mind showing him the ropes.

I was up early on Saturday morning to get ready. It was going to be easier to work on the car at my house but the first challenge was to get his car on the drive. It was awkward enough getting my old Civic on but the EK is much lower! Luckily, the new turbo kit came with a side exit exhaust so there was no chance of a low centre section getting caught and with a bit of careful manoeuvring and a few planks of wood it was on the drive. I was hoping we could get the job done quick enough so that we would be able to raise the suspension slightly but time ran out and the weather turned so that will have to wait.

I was hoping to take a couple of short cuts with the swap. I didn’t want to have to remove the “bitch pin” in situ and I was hoping we could get away with leaving the passenger driveshaft in place and sliding the box off it. It didn’t all go quite to plan. While I stripped down the drivers side suspension, Kyle stripped down the engine bay. That all went relatively smoothly and the driveshaft didn’t put up much of a fight when I came to remove it. The engine bay was cleared of all looms and brackets and the engine supported before we removed the gearbox mounts. Then came removing the gearbox, and with the passenger side driveshaft in place it was proving really awkward. It was nearing lunch, energy was running low, so we ordered a pizza and while waiting for delivery I quickly stripped the passenger side suspension and remove the driveshaft. The box came off easily then (with a bit of gentle persuasion) and we sat it aside and refuelled on pizza.

With bellies full of Pizza and energy levels raised we got back to work. A few parts needing swapping over from the old gearbox to the new and the new clutch needed fitting before we could get everything reassembled. I tackled the clutch while Kyle swapped sensors over from box to box. The “new” clutch didn’t look in the best condition. It looked quite low on material and it had been left out in the rain so was covered in surface rust but the seller had assured Kyle that it had only been used for 1000 miles. It was a bit of a gamble fitting it but after removing the old clutch and finding bits of the “pads” missing Kyle decided he wanted to take the risk. We gave the “new” clutch a quick clean and I set about fitting it, doing my best to get it aligned. With the box assembled and the clutch fitted the refit could begin.

Getting the box back in place in such a cramped space can be such a pain but with a bit of support from the jack and a lot of straining it was aligned and slid into place. Everything went smoothly from there on in, bolting everything back in place, torqueing all the bolts up and refilling the box. We got caught out by a brief summer shower but it was quite refreshing after crawling around in the dirt all day. All the wiring was plugged back in, wheels on and the car was dropped to the ground. She started first time with no problems at all so I’ll call that a successful job!

I have noticed a few more things to do on the car that will have to be done soon. Both front lower ball joints have split boots and the front lower control arm bushes are cracked so I’ll wait to see what Kyle does with those. I’ll have to get a video of the car with the new turbo kit fitted too; it sounds awesome!

A New Opportunity

Well here’s some interesting and exciting news. I’ve been offered the chance to work alongside another owner on their project. Remember Kyle’s B18C4 EK4? Well it’s now spitting out a lot more power because of a newly installed turbo kit and he’s now wanting to turn it into a bit of a track / time attack monster.

I’ve helped him with a wire tuck before ( Click Here ) and done some photos for him ( Click Here ) but now he’s asked if I’d like to get in on the new plans and come up with some ideas and custom parts for his car. I can’t really say no. I love track cars and I love to make custom parts. I think the plan will be to make it as light as possible, work on the handling and try to increase the downforce and aerodynamics of the car. I’ve got a few ideas floating around in my head at the moment but I’ve suggested our starting point should be the weight loss. Kyle is going to find out a start weight for the car and then we can get to work. I’m a big believer in Power to Weight when it comes to cars so the lighter I can get it, the better. I’ll also try to get it as close to a 50/50 weight distribution as I can but that may be pushing it a bit…

Anyway. Watch this space. Hopefully I’ll have lots of interesting updates for another project.

EK4 In The Sun

Another sunny weekend! Yay! Hours of fun on the bike and this quick shoot. You might remember I helped Kyle with a wire tuck a month or so back (here). Since then not much has changed; the wheels have been dipped by WrapStarz and a new steering wheel has been fitted but the big changes are coming soon so before those changes happen I asked if he wanted some current photos.

I decided to choose a bit of a secluded location but I wasn’t entirely sure if the low EK4 would make it. The last time I drove down these lanes the roads were covered in mud, grass and other debris from the fields and I ended up half ploughing the road. Taking it steady in the EK4 we found the roads had cleared and the first spot was pretty easy to get to.

I’d managed to choose a spot with the sun almost directly behind though which made it a bit difficult. Light skies and a dark car are always going to be a bit awkward. I tried to shoot slightly under exposed off the car so it didn’t blow out the skies but a bit of recovery in Photoshop brought the detail back out. Talking of editing, I keep finding it’s a total gamble how my shots come out. I’m using a laptop so how the editing looks to me always seems to change on other people screens because of my screen angle. I think a desktop PC and dedicated screen is needed!

While I was snapping away I decided to try a see through bonnet style shot. I’d not got my tripod with my though so I attempted it by hand. One shot with the bonnet open and one with the bonnet closed and somehow they lined up almost 100%. I managed to merge them pretty well in Photoshop by laying the bonnet closed shot over the bonnet open and using the eraser tool to carefully (in one go) fade the bonnet. There may be other ways around this but I’m not aware of them I’m afraid. I think it turned out pretty well though!

With a decent amount of shots at this point I decided we should move on further down the road into the trees. Bit of a bad call on my part. As we were driving along slowly, there was a loud bang and scraping. What looked like a few puddles were actually some pretty deep pot holes and dropping down into them had torn off the Mugen style front lip. It hadn’t just ripped the mounting points off though, the impact had torn the lip in half and it’s meant to be an unbreakable poly material. Well that was the end of that shoot. We managed to tie up the half still on the car and drive back to get some tools to remove it. Dangers of having a really low car I guess!

If you’re wondering, here’s the specs:

Engine/Transmission
– B18C4 Engine
– Type R Valves, Springs, Retainers and Cams
– Baffled Sump
– Lightweight Flywheel
– 6 Paddle Clutch
– S80 Gearbox 4.7 FD
– ITR Shifter
– K&N Intake
– BuddyClub Spec 2 Exhaust
– Bee R Rev Limiter
– Magnecore HT Leads

Braking/Suspension
– ITR 5 Stud Hub/Brake Conversion
– HEL Braided Brake Hoses
– MeisterR Zeta R Coilovers
– Rota GT3 Alloys
– Toyo T1R Tyres

Exterior Styling
– EK9 Headlights
– Rear Tints
– SiR Grill
– Aerial Blank
– Team HEKO Wind Deflectors
– Number Plate Tilt Bracket
– Tegiwa Imports Engine Dress-Up
– Mugen Front Lip
– Spoon Reservoir Covers
– EK4 VTi-S Rear Lip
– KODE Rear Tow Hook

Interior Styling
– Nardi Steering Wheel
– Driftworks Snap Off Boss

And future plans include:
– EK9 Spoiler
– Skunk 2/ BLOX Inlet Manifold
– Skunk2 Rear LCAs
– ASR Brace
– Beaks Rear Tie Bar
– Turbo Kit
– Full Respray
– Recaro Seats
– Takata Harness’s

Kyle’s B18C4 EK4 – Wire Tuck

This weekend was a busy one.  I had a bit of a challenge on my hands after I’d been asked if I could wire tuck a friend’s Civic.  I was confident I could get the job done but prior to this job I had never worked on an “EK” Civic.  His EK wasn’t entirely different from the EG Civic I’m used to.  Some bolts were in different locations and the wiring was laid out slightly differently, so it was a relatively stress free job.

For those of you that don’t know what a “wire tuck” is; You’re engine bay is full of wiring.  It is normally ran down the sides of the bay, taking power to the headlights, sidelights, air conditioning and other accessories. Tucking these wires, is simply hiding them.  It gives the engine bay a cleaner look and focuses the eye more on the engine than all the clutter around the edges.  The one I did at the weekend was a basic tuck.  We only hid the accessory wires.  You can go further and hide the engine loom, power steering, air conditioning, battery and fuse box etc.  Unfortunately this isn’t going to be a complete How To, but just an overview of what I got up to.

Saturday morning dawned and I was woken up by sun streaming through my window. It seemed Spring had finally arrived in the UK. After downing the essentials (Weetabix, Marmite on Toast & Coffee) I grabbed all my electrical gear and headed over to Kyle’s.  When I arrived Kyle had already began stripping down the front end. To make this job possible, you have to remove nearly all the body panels from the front.  In fact, everything except the bonnet.  You also have to remove the battery, (it should be disconnected when doing anything electrical) and fusebox, so we whipped those out too.  With the front garden full of body panels and the sun beating down it was time to start stripping the wiring back and cleaning it all up.

Kyle hasn’t owned the car long.  He bought it as it stands now, so stripping the car back to this extent gave us an opportunity to see how well the car had been put together by the previous owner.  Unfortunately, that person seems to have “bodged” a few things that we’ll have to get sorted.  Ignoring the bodges, the previous owner also removed the ABS system which left all the orange plug dotted about the bay.

The accessory wiring loom is mostly separate from the engine loom which made the job a bit easier.  The EK accessory loom runs from one shock tower, all around the front of the engine bay to the opposing shock tower.  All of this wiring had to be unplugged, unbolted and unclipped from its original position.  It was then a case of laying it out on the floor and seeing which wires we didn’t need.  The ABS wiring was removed, and one section of loom for the front fog lights.  That was the simple bit.

The “tricky” bit is the next job.  You have to take the plugs from the accessory wiring that is left in the engine bay, unwrap all the insulation and try to feed those plugs back into the cabin area.  It takes a long time, but you can’t just go hacking at the loom to try to get the insulated cover and tape off.  If you end up cutting through a wire it just makes the job that little bit more difficult.  It’s awkward too.  On the inside, where you’re feeding the wires to, you have to remove panels from the dashboard, parts of the heater matrix and twist yourself into unnatural positions to see where the wires are coming through.

Bit by bit we managed it.  The loom had to be cut open very carefully on the inside to free up just enough length so we wouldn’t have to extend any wires.  After we went to all that trouble getting all the wires we needed inside, it was time to find a different route for them.  The best route on a Civic is to feed it out of the hole created for the door wiring.  It’s big enough to fit the large accessory plugs through and saves you having to make a hole, we just had to make sure the loom was protected enough from the metal edges of the hole and seal the bung up after we’d fed the wiring out.

We we’re on the home straight now though.  All that needed to be done now was to feed the wiring around the inner wings, securing it with cable ties and making sure all plugs were covered and waterproof.  I managed to route it just right so no wires needed to be extended.  When I removed the wiring at the start I’d tried to keep as many as the OEM clips intact as possible so it was simply a case of pushing the clips back into a hole to secure the harness.  Back in place and all connected up it was time to reconnect the battery and test all the electrics, all worked perfectly.

So after all that messing about with the wiring it was time to reassemble the car, putting all the body and interior back together and giving the engine bay a good clean.  A nice long 7 hour day but the sun shone for the whole time and I didn’t get stressed once.  A job well done I think.

I’m not sure what’s next for Kyle’s Civic but I’ll try to lend a hand when I can, and if anyone want’s a wire tuck doing, shout up and I’ll see if it can be done.